Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges

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 Post subject: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 8:20 am 
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Has anyone tried this with a good quality fingernail polish, glossy black and white? Would seem easy to apply with supplied brush, and cheaper than even smallest can of Rustoleum. Thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:58 am 
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From what I've heard else where, its best to use matt/flat paint as the detection system on the M in particular is prone to misreading codes if the paint is to shiny.

Having said that I'm still using two Voigtlander lenses that I self coded for my M8 and both my M9 and now my M have no problem in still detecting the codes. If it's a cheaper alternative then its worth a try.

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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:21 am 
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Yes, matte black is preferred - but glossy might work (you'll have to test). White is typically unnecessary.

I'd also advise against using the brush supplied. Use a toothpick or the end of a paper match. You want just a tiiiiiny drop. You can always build up your mark - easier than cleaning up after a mess.

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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 6:57 am 
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I did try last night with shiny black and white nail polish from Sephora. Yes, needed combination of brush and toothpick. Dried nicely, cleaned up with a little 0000 steel wool. Worked 1st time on a type IV 50mm f/2 Summicron from 1984.

Having trouble with the new Voigtlander 50mm f1.5 ASPH Nokton (groove). Flange that I got on e-bay isn't right for this lens, too elevated and so screws too short. The vendor discloses incompatibility with the f/1.1 Noktor, but I took a chance on Nokton.

Any tips? For those of you familiar with the Match Technical kit, does the plastic template vary between their Leica M kit and Voigtlander / Zeiss kit? Am wondering whether the registration notch is placed slightly differently on Cosina-made lenses, such that I am slightly off in my marking. I only need a single bar, very first sensor.

Thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:03 am 
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No, there shouldn't be any difference between the Leica and other mounts. They're all made to a particular specification (the M mount). Sometimes, try as you might, the coding template doesn't fall quite right in the perfect spot.

Older ZM and some CV lenses might have a screw located where the marks need to be. This was corrected on newer versions/lenses.

One trick is to very slightly widen the mark on one side, then the other, testing in between. You might get lucky and that'll do the job. Failing that, wipe the flange clean and try again. I've had at least one lens that just wouldn't work right no matter what I tried, so I went with the "next best code" which did (I think it was because of a screw). Of course, there's always manual selection in the MENU but that stinks.

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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:37 am 
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Still working on it. I checked, the M coder on this lens definitely doesn't put the codes anywhere near the sensor. I took fine point Sharpie, made a dot on outside of camera's sensor (on the body flange), mounted the CV lens, put a dot on it right where it aligned with the dot on the camera body, unmounted the lens, put on Tim Isaac's M-Coder template and it's WAY off. Nothing about his work, just this CV flange and where the ident is. So I am figuring out how to align his ring and have made marks for both ends of his rings, on right side it's right over a screw. But getting it the sensor to take the Sharpie mark (only over 1st sensor) is really frustrating. Stopping for a while. Yes, the right (or close enough) lenses are listed in the Manual menu, it's just that on the fly when changing lenses it's too easy to forget.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:27 am 
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Update:
I looked at the problem below above when less tired. Alignment of of Match Technical's coder ring is right for my new CV Nokton f/1.5 50mm ASPH (DN is right; that has to be the case, or else the CV lenses wouldn't fit Leica body), but:

(1) there's a code discrepancy for the Summilux 50mm f/1.4 ASPH that I am trying to emulate
(2) I still might not have my placement correct or found the "magic" marker / paint type yet.

As to #1, the Match Technical code wheel has the first on RIGHT of the 6 sensors as black and all others white or blank. Whereas the chart on LaVida Leica and the original from which it was taken has the first on RIGHT as the only black.

Getting this reversed gives the Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8. At least when it works at all, haven't gotten to far, my Typ 240 display still says "Uncoded" - that's problem #2. Still working at it.

Anyone heard of problem #1 before?
Thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:00 pm 
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Got it ! Some kind of miracle. I don't know which of these things did it, but I had a hunch. Since I had 1st time success with my 1984 Summicron M 50mm f/2.0 (Type IV) when I replaced the flange (eBay) and filled all the pits with nail polish (even the white ones), I wondered whether the M Typ 240 is really sensitive to the very shiny chrome on the CV 50mm f/1.5 ASPH Nokton. So I applied some blank white Dymo label tape over the recessed groove so as to give a white background. Then pressed down with the tip of a pen. Then trimmed to the groove with an X-Acto knife. then colored in the 1 block (the first one) I needed with the broad end of the pen that comes with Tim Isaac's M-Coder. About 1mm x 1mm, I measured the sensor and it was close to this 1mm squared. Worked first time. Maybe it's just the ink, or the tape, or the combination? I'm too happy after all tho frustration to jinx it by trying to tease out the forgoing variables.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:32 am 
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I use a Tipp-Ex correction pen myself for the white patches, works a treat.


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 Post subject: Re: Painting in the Code Holes on Replacement Flanges
Unread postPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:46 am 
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It can be a bit of a pain, no doubt. To make matters worse, this method of coding is "temporary." The recessed groove on later lens flanges goes a long way... Unfortunately, this is of no help to earlier lenses that lack the groove (I've got a few ZMs like this) that require frequent re-marking, as the marks wear off with lens changes. *sigh*

Congrats on getting it working! So are you saying the Summilux code is right - or wrong? I'll verify the code for you this evening if you are saying it's wrong (against the real deal).

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