I did my own B&W developing and printing back in the 70's, when I worked through college doing freelance photography and shooting for a short-lived local football tabloid called the "[Los Angeles] Rams Football News." I shot lots of Tri-X, always at 400 "ASA" and developed it in Kodak D-76 (1:1), and printed on Agfa Brovira (usually 8x10 or 11x14 inches, my converted bathroom was too small to handle 16x20). If I needed lots of B&W prints, I sometimes used a nearby professional lab called "La Peer Lab." I rarely shot color, but when I did I had it developed and printed by another neighborhood pro lab called "Gibbons Color Laboratories." The folks in those shops were great, and helped me learn more about exposing better negatives, in order to give them more to work with. They closed their doors many years ago, alas!
After I started practicing law I didn't have time to develop or print, so I used a pro lab in Hollywood called Silverlab. Their printers were terrific, and often made my photos much better than I anticipated. I wish I'd taken a day or two off, just to stand in their darkroom and watch them dodge and burn (assuming they would have allowed me). I had switched to Ilford HP-5 by then, in part because I didn't care for Kodak T-Max, which for a while was touted as a replacement for Tri-X.
You are so right about digital's advantage in low-light situations. I've never cared for flash: I don't care for the resulting images, and it doesn't suit my preferred candid approach.